Transform Your Kitchen with a DIY Tile Backsplash
Creating a tile backsplash is not only a fantastic way to enhance the aesthetic appeal of your kitchen but also a practical solution for simplifying cleaning and maintenance. Moreover, installing your own tile backsplash is an excellent beginner-friendly project. Typically covering a small area, it doesn’t require waterproofing, making it ideal for DIY enthusiasts. If you’re ready to embark on this rewarding project, I’ve partnered with CTS Rapid Set to guide you through the process of tiling with their innovative All Tile Mortar. This product is user-friendly and compatible with various tile types, ensuring a smooth installation experience.
Choosing the Right Tile Adhesive
Understanding the appropriate adhesive for your tile project can be confusing with terms like thinset, mortar, and grout floating around. Fortunately, the All Tile Mortar from CTS simplifies this decision. It is a versatile, multi-purpose tile setting mortar suitable for ceramic, mosaic, porcelain, quarry, glass, veneer, cement, and natural stone tiles. Whether you’re working on a wall or floor, with large or small tiles, this product has you covered.
One of its key advantages is its fast-setting nature. It allows you to complete both tiling and grouting within the same day, typically after just 5 hours of curing—significantly reducing project timelines. This makes it perfect for weekend upgrades.
Since it sets quickly, I recommend mixing smaller batches to prevent wastage and ensure consistent application. Below, you’ll find detailed calculations to help you prepare the right amount of mortar for your specific project. Once your tiles are set and the mortar has fully cured, you can proceed with grouting. Use non-sanded grout for joints less than 1/8 inch wide or for delicate tiles prone to scratching. For larger joints, sanded grout provides added strength and durability.
Tools & Materials Needed
Recommended Tools:
- Tile saw or manual tile cutter (highly recommended for precise cuts)
- Power drill with mixing attachment
- Bubble level or spirit level
- Notched trowel suited for tile size
- Buckets for mixing mortar and cleaning
- Kitchen scale for accurate measurement
- Rubber float for grout application
- Sponge for cleaning excess grout and smoothing joints
Supplies:
- CTS All Tile Mortar
- Tiles (measure your backsplash area carefully and purchase 10-20% extra to account for cuts and mistakes)
- Tile spacers for uniform joints
- Grout in your preferred color
For visual learners, I recommend watching the accompanying video tutorial below to see each step in action.
Step 1: Planning and Layout
Begin by deciding on a tile pattern. I chose a classic 50% offset subway tile layout. Measure your entire backsplash area meticulously to determine how many tiles you’ll need. To calculate, add the width of a tile to the spacer width, then divide the total wall length by this sum:
TOTAL LENGTH / (TILE WIDTH + SPACER WIDTH)
This calculation indicates whether your tiles will fit perfectly or if you’ll need to adjust for partial tiles at the edges. For a pattern with a staggered layout, remember to account for the offset by subtracting the length of a half tile when necessary. If the resulting calculations leave you with small leftover pieces, consider adjusting the starting point to center the pattern or to optimize the tile cuts.
Adjusting for Small Remainders
If you find that your calculations result in very small leftover pieces, try shifting your starting point. For example, instead of beginning with a full tile, start with a cut tile measuring approximately 75% of the full size. To illustrate, if tiling an 80-foot-long backsplash with 6-inch tiles and 1/16-inch spacers, dividing 80 by 6.0625 yields approximately 13.195 tiles—meaning a small leftover. Alternatively, subtract the length of a 75% tile (4.5 inches) from the total length and divide again to see if this results in a more manageable leftover piece, such as approximately 2¾ inches, which is easier to work with and visually balanced.
Centering Your Pattern
To create a balanced, symmetrical look, calculate the amount of tile needed at each end to ensure the pattern is centered. Take the decimal remainder from your calculation, divide it by 2, and use this measurement to determine the size of the edge tiles. For instance, if your calculation leaves a decimal of 1.195, dividing by 2 gives approximately 0.5975. Multiplying by your tile size (e.g., 6 inches) results in approximately 3.585 inches per end tile. Rounding to a convenient size like 3½ inches helps achieve a professional, centered appearance.
Step 2: Surface Preparation
Clear your workspace by moving any appliances or items obstructing the area. Cover your countertop with protective paper or tape, ensuring the tape is placed at a distance equal to the thickness of your tiles from the wall to prevent mortar from sticking on the surface. Remove outlet covers and loosen the outlets in their boxes so they sit flush with the new tile surface. If your backsplash extends behind appliances or into corners, draw straight, level lines to guide your installation. For backsplash areas behind stoves, temporarily screw in a level piece of scrap wood at countertop height to maintain alignment. Pre-cut any tiles needed for corners or edges to streamline the process.
Step 3: Mixing the Mortar
Mixing smaller batches of All Tile Mortar helps prevent waste and ensures freshness. The product has a pot life of approximately 1.5 hours, so small batches are ideal. For a full 50-pound bag, add 6-7 quarts of water. To mix a smaller portion, divide both the mortar weight and water volume proportionally. For example, mixing ¼ of a bag involves about 12.5 lbs of mortar and approximately 1.5 to 1¾ quarts of water.
Use a kitchen scale to measure dry mortar accurately. Always pour water into your mixing container first, then gradually add the mortar while mixing with a drill fitted with a paddle attachment. Use cold water to extend pot life. Aim for a peanut butter-like consistency—thick but workable. Allow the mixture to rest briefly to absorb moisture fully, adding more water only if necessary.
Use a suitable mixing vessel: a 5-gallon bucket works well for larger batches, while smaller containers like a 2-gallon bucket or repurposed yogurt containers are perfect for smaller mixes. Properly mixed mortar ensures strong adhesion and easier application.
Step 4: Applying the Tiles
Choose a notched trowel appropriate for your tile size:
- For tiles less than 8 inches: ¼” x ¼” x ¼” square notch
- For tiles 8 to 15 inches: ¼” x ⅜” x ¼” square notch
- For tiles larger than 15 inches: ½” x ½” x ½” square notch
Spread the mortar onto the wall with the flat side of the trowel, then use the notched side to create grooves in the mortar. Hold the trowel at approximately a 45-degree angle to form consistent ridges. Work in small sections to prevent mortar from drying before tile placement.
Press each tile firmly into the mortar, ensuring it is level and aligned with adjacent tiles. Use spacers to maintain uniform joints, or if you prefer a groutless look, place a spacer under the bottom row to lift tiles off the countertop. Tuck tiles under outlet or switch boxes, ensuring they sit flush after installation.
Cutting Tiles for Edges and Openings
Use a wet tile saw for precise cuts, especially for L- or U-shaped cuts around outlets, pipes, or corners. Mark your tiles with a waterproof marker, then carefully cut along your marked lines. For U-shaped cuts, make several straight cuts to remove the center piece, then smooth the edges by running the tile back and forth over the saw blade. Take your time to prevent chipping and ensure a clean fit.
Step 5: Grouting and Finishing Touches
Allow the mortar to cure for approximately 5 hours before removing spacers and cleaning residual mortar from tile surfaces. Prepare your grout according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Using a rubber float, press the grout into the joints at a 45-degree angle, ensuring full coverage.
Scrape off excess grout with the float, then use a damp sponge to wipe away grout haze and smooth the joints. Rinse the sponge frequently to avoid spreading grout film. After about 3 hours, once the grout has hardened sufficiently, gently wipe the tiles with a clean, barely damp sponge to remove any remaining haze. Allow the grout to cure fully as per the product’s guidelines before sealing.
Seal the grout to protect against stains and make cleaning easier, especially in a kitchen environment. Reattach and tighten outlet covers and switches, then add a bead of caulk at the base of the backsplash, where it meets the countertop, as well as along edges against cabinets or trim. This professional finishing touch helps prevent water infiltration and enhances the overall look of your new backsplash.
Enjoy your beautiful, personalized DIY tile backsplash—an impressive upgrade that you accomplished yourself! Thanks to CTS for sponsoring this post. I only recommend products I trust and love, and all opinions are my own. Click here to read my full disclosure policy.