Understanding Why Your Door Won’t Latch
A door that refuses to latch securely can be incredibly frustrating, often caused by a variety of underlying issues. Based on extensive experience as a joiner in the UK, I’ve identified approximately 25 common reasons behind this problem. Here, I’ll walk you through the most frequent causes and practical solutions to help you resolve the issue efficiently.
How to Remove a Door Handle and Latch Assembly
Before diagnosing, it’s often easiest to disassemble the handle and latch assembly. Carefully remove the door handles by unscrewing the screws holding them in place. Then, detach the latch mechanism from the edge of the door, which typically involves unscrewing the faceplate or removing the latch itself. This process allows you to inspect, clean, or replace components as needed.
Checking if the Door Catches on the Frame
When approaching a problematic door, start by inspecting the entire door and its surroundings. Ensure there is approximately a 2mm gap between the door and the frame, especially near the latch side. Confirm that the door swings freely over the floor without obstruction. If the gap exceeds 2mm, verify whether the latch extends sufficiently to engage with the keeper in the frame. Sometimes, the door may be catching elsewhere, preventing proper latching, so initial visual assessment is crucial.
How to Plane a Door Down for Better Fit
If the door appears too tight or misaligned, planing it down can help. Secure the door in an open position using wedges, then gently run a power planer along its surface, maintaining a 90-degree angle. Take small increments, around 0.5mm, and continually check the fit. This careful approach prevents over-removing material and ensures a smooth, even finish, resulting in better clearance and smoother operation.
Addressing Excessive Gap on the Latch Side
If the gap on the latch side is larger than about 5mm, the latch may not reach the keeper properly. You have three main options:
- Option 1: The most effective is packing out behind the hinges to move the entire door closer to the latch side. This involves fixing spacers behind the hinges, effectively shifting the door’s position.
- Option 2: If the keeper is set too deep into the frame, add a plastic packer behind it to elevate its position, aligning it correctly with the latch.
- Option 3: If the latch has been chiselled too deeply into the door, remove the handles and add packing behind the latch assembly, then reassemble.
One Handle Works, the Other Doesn’t
If only one handle retracts the latch, the spindle has likely slipped out of the handle connection. Both handles should turn in unison, as the spindle links them. This issue is common with external doors, which tend to be thicker. To fix this, either replace the spindle with a longer one or reposition it centrally using various methods—such as inserting a piece of cardboard or a dab of silicone into the spindle hole. Ensuring proper alignment is key to smooth operation.
Ensuring the Latch Retracts Freely
Remove the door from its frame and operate the handles directly. The latch should retract smoothly in and out. If it doesn’t, the latch mechanism may be worn or faulty, necessitating replacement. Remember the rhyme: Handle down, latch-up, that’s the way we like to shut! When replacing the latch, also check that the springs in the handles are functioning properly. Gritty or stiff movement indicates wear, and replacing the latch often resolves the problem. Sometimes, replacing both handles and latch as a complete set provides the most reliable long-term operation.
Checking the Keeper’s Position (Height)
The keeper is the small metal plate embedded flush in the frame that the latch engages into. If the keeper is misaligned vertically, the latch won’t catch properly. Doors can sag over time, especially on the latch side, due to gravity. Adjusting the keeper’s height with a hammer and chisel can realign it, ensuring proper engagement.
Adjusting the Keeper’s Distance from the Rebate
The keeper must be correctly positioned relative to the rebate (the door frame’s recess). If it’s too far, the door will rattle; too close, and it won’t latch. Proper positioning ensures a satisfying click when the door closes fully. Achieving this alignment often involves trial and error, but the result is a door that latches smoothly and securely every time.